Pickering chef at Michelin-starred Oakville restaurant takes home huge award

A chef who originally hails from Pickering is having a great year.

Victoria Rinsma, a young Toronto-based sous chef who can help take credit for a rare Michelin star, is quickly racking up accolades for crafting creative, meaningful and delicious dishes.

While Rinsma has quickly become known for helping helm the kitchen at Hexagon, an Oakville restaurant that made national headlines when it became the first Greater Toronto Area restaurant to earn a coveted Michelin star, she is also wowing judges at internationally renowned competitions with meals that pair fine ingredients with something you can’t find in a pantry: Heart. 

“I feel elated. I feel very good and just a huge amount of love and support right now,” Rinsma tells INsauga.com after presenting her dish to a panel of judges at the regional finals of the prestigious S.Pellegrino Young Chef Academy Competition 2024-25 in Toronto. 

The competition, held at George Brown College on Oct. 23, saw 10 young chefs compete for the chance to participate in the finale in Milan next year. On the evening of Oct. 24, Rinsma was declared the winner of the Canadian portion of the international competition, and others also walked away with recognition.

Sébastien Rémillard (part of the Bocuse D’or Team Canada) claimed the S.Pellegrino Social Responsibility Award for his dish, The Evolution of My Life. Clement Cavoret (Tanière ⁠3 in Quebec City) won the Acqua Panna Connection in Gastronomy Award for his dish, Deerly Not Wasted. The Fine Dining Lovers Food for Thought Award was won by Mary Loiusse Isabelle Yap (Islington Golf Club) for a dish of duck sinigang with tamarind consommé.

While all the dishes, many of which focused on sustainability and not letting any part of any animal go to waste, earned praise, Rinsma was the only chef to make a judge cry.

“I am speechless because the presentation is so stunning. The touch of the personal connection, the thought behind each step,” said Chef Nuit Regular, the acclaimed toque behind some of Toronto’s best Thai restaurants, including Pai and Kiin.  

“I’m really touched because the food is not just to refill you, it shows a lot of passion, a lot of intention, a lot of creativity. The flavour, the texture, it’s very elegant and it touched me. I am very proud to be here and to taste your food. Thank you.” 

Rinsma, who stood alongside her mentor and the executive chef at Hexagon, Rafael Covarrubias, presented her dish, aptly called Across the Sea and Home Again, to a panel of three judges: Regular, Jason Bangerter (executive chef at Langdon Hall) and Normand Laprise (owner and head chef of Toqué! and Brasserie T! in Montreal).

Her grandmother inspired the dish that ultimately left all three judges more than a little impressed. 

“She was just a home cook, but she loved to cook and she loved trying new recipes and foods from different cultures,” Rinsma told INsauga.com after the competition.

The dish–which Rinsma was given five hours to prepare–featured a stunning array of ingredients, including smoked ham hock, butternut squash, juniper berries, heirloom tomatoes, agar, garlic, white wine, striped bass, English peas, white shoyu, pasilla peppers, guajillo peppers, Morita peppers, codfish heads, sherry and more. 

Rinsma says the win still left her stunned.

“I’m absolutely overwhelmed with joy and gratitude,” she says in an email to INsauga.com.

“Winning the Canadian regional finals of the S.Pellegrino Young Chef Academy Competition is a dream come true. It’s an incredible honour to be recognized among such talented young chefs, and I’m still in shock. This achievement wouldn’t have been possible without the support of my team, family, and mentor, Rafael Covarrubias.”

Rinsma says that cooking has always been integral to her life, keeping her, her mother, and her grandmother connected as they bonded over recipes and creations.

“When I was thinking of my signature dish, something that [my grandmother] had made me fall in love with was going to be part of the dish. I could go on forever about the dishes she made. Whenever she made something, you could tell there was a little extra something and love in there.” 

While Rinsma’s win might not have surprised anyone who watched the judges’ eyes light up when the plates were set in front of them, it shows that the chef’s star is destined to shine even brighter at a time when she’s meeting milestones seemingly destined for cooks much deeper into their careers. 

Just a few weeks ago, Hexagon was one of several Canadian restaurants–but one of very few outside of Toronto or Vancouver–to receive a star for “high-quality cooking.” 

The star came after years of accolades for Covarrubias’s resto–and the executive chef himself was also named the Toronto 2024 Young Chef Award Winner. 

Now, Rinsma’s success is another feather in the cap of a suburban restaurant that has quickly risen to become a world-class operation known for what the Michelin Guide called its “beautiful, soigné works that are refined, original, and substantial.”

“I was overwhelmed with pride. Seeing Victoria’s passion and creativity resonate with the judges on that level was truly moving,” Covarrubias tells INsauga.com in an email.

“As her mentor, it’s incredible to witness her growth and talent being recognized. That moment validated all the hard work and dedication she’s put into her craft. Regardless of the competition’s outcome, Victoria has already demonstrated her exceptional skill and potential.” 

For Rinsma, years of training and passion have led to this moment. From a young age, she knew she wanted to be a chef and even indulged her passion at childhood birthday parties, where she and her friends would make their own chef’s hats and aprons and concoct no-bake cakes. 

“I always knew I loved cooking. As it got time to enter high school, I was a keener and it was time to think about what I wanted to do for the rest of my life and cooking just dominated every thought that I had,” she says, adding that she took cooking classes at Pine Ridge Secondary School, competed in local cooking contests and eventually enrolled in culinary school at Durham College.

Rinsma says her most recent win has been huge for her and her family.

“My family is beyond thrilled,” she says.

“They’ve been my rock throughout this journey, supporting me every step of the way. My mom was in the audience during the competition, and seeing her tears of joy when I won was unforgettable. She has always believed in me, and this win is as much hers as it is mine. We celebrated with a big family dinner afterwards.”

Rinsma also says that her team at Hexagon is planning a dinner to celebrate her rare achievement and after that party wraps up, she’ll take some time for herself before the next competition.

“We’ll have a big party with great food, drinks and music. I also want to take some time to relax and recharge before focusing on the Grand Finale in Milan next year,” she says.

As for what’s next in the competition, Rinsma will be paired with a distinguished local juror who will mentor her as she prepares to share her signature dish with judges in Italy.

The name of the juror has not yet been announced.

“I’m looking forward to learning from them and perfecting my craft. With their mentorship and my dedication, I’m confident that I’ll be well-prepared to represent Canada on the global stage in Milan.”

As for what’s next for Rinsma’s career beyond Milan, Covarrubias sees potential for the young chef to one day helm the kitchen at her own acclaimed resto. 

“Victoria possesses a rare combination of talent, dedication, and passion. In the next five to 10 years, I envision her becoming a leading figure in Canadian cuisine, potentially running her own Michelin-starred restaurant or earning international recognition,” he says. 

“Her creativity, work ethic, and humility will carry her far. As her mentor, I’m committed to supporting her growth and helping her achieve her culinary aspirations.”

Even before taking the top title in the regional finals in Toronto, Rinsma called the competition a win for everyone.  

“I think being a part of it is just a celebration in itself. It’s a win for everybody.” 

– With files from YourCityWITHIN